We had a good opening weekend. We had full houses Saturday and Sunday, though the extra 5:
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The image you will normally see on your screen is at a lower resolution still, as wordpress fits it to the page and decreases the resolution very considerably to speed up loading. For serious research publications I am happy to take new photos of guns I have access to. So now you know why the photos in the normal view look a bit murky!
Just click on them for a better photo. What is to report? Not much surprised me — there were as usual one or two things that went way above estimate, and a lot of the small pistols that went within estimates.
One dealer who bought one cased pair said he would split it up to get more for it. I was annoyed at myself for not bidding higher on a box of flasks, but you can never know how far the other bidder would have taken you unless you try! I had intended to bid on some pistols for restoration on the blog but they just crept out of my top prices.
Anyway it is otherwise in nice condition. Oak pistol cases should be easy as the top and bottom are screwed on with small brass screws. I checked that the breech blocks still fitted perfectly together, so I must have got the barrels joined in exactly the right orientation — that is a relief!
Here are a couple of photos of the setup — the red arrow points to the K type thermocouple that monitors temperature and can control the heater — it is covered with a bit of glass wool in use so that it picks up the barrel temperature — I also have an IR thermometer that gives spot temperatures so it is possible to control the heat and thus hopefully get the soldering right.
There are very few percussion or flint sporting guns in the sale — a few large bores but very little of interest to the low budget shooter! Without additional heat from a torch, the element only gets the barrel up to just above C — the melting point of tin.
Make sure you earth everything including the barrel! Anyway it all seemed to work out OK and I now have the barrels firmly joined in a way that will allow me to get them hot enough to re-fix the ribs without the barrels coming apart. I now have to clean them up and re-tin the margins where the ribs will touch.
The ramrod tube with the hole for the bolt needs to go on at the same time, and it probably a good idea to fix the other pipes at the same time. Refixing barrels is about the worst job there is on guns, particularly on old guns where the metal surfaces that the ribs touch may be pitted and hard to clean — I wish I had a minature sand blaster, then I could mask the strips off and clean them thoroughly.
The link blanks were a treat to engrave, being thinly plated copper — I might even be tempted to do their engraving after all! They are in typical William Palmer style. As usual I got escalated into buying the most expensive one that Screwfix had — it does infra red up to C and also had a K type thermocouple for contact measurement, so I should be able to get the silver solder temperature right without overheating the barrels etc.
The cheaper infra red thermometers only go to — C. I did some more work on the small pair of pistols — I had to drill out the screw in the tang and in doing so I enlarged the hole somewhat — it was pretty rusted up and the screw fitted into a steel insert in the butt that was completely rusted to the screw.
I tried to weld up the screw hole, which should have been an easy job, but my foot pedal control on the welder had got out of adjustment and was on full power all the time, so that more or less destroyed the tang before I had a chance to take my foot off the gas!The Online Writing Lab (OWL) at Purdue University houses writing resources and instructional material, and we provide these as a free service of the Writing Lab at Purdue.
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